It has been 48 hours since anything was last posted on the blog, not because we have nothing to report, in fact quite the opposite, but mainly because our night time parking spot was devoid of any internet signal and also because last night we were tucked up in bed by 20:30 to escape the cold.
We have moved into the Ain region, specifically the Haut-Bugey area, a mountainous area in the East of France that is so close to the Switzerland border I am sure there is a hint of chocolate in the air. We know very little about the area and are having to pretty much learn on the hoof, the one thing that is immediately evident is the lack of recognised motorhome aires. Tonight for example we are sitting in a stunning location, but it is on the car park of an Auberge who charge €6:00 for the privilege. We are parked right next to Lake Genin at a height of 836 metres, dizzy heights for someone from Norfolk! To arrive at this actual location we have had a marvellous couple of days so let me explain.
Yesterday morning we packed away and departed from Pont de Veyle, stopping for fuel in Bourg-en-Bresse and then continued onwards towards our night stop at Grottes Du Cerdon. We reached the town of Pont d’Ain and decided to stop for lunch, after a couple of attempts I eventually found a suitable parking spot at a picnic area right next to the river Ain. Within minutes table and chairs were sited on the river bank and a light lunch was taken in the sunshine. Eventually we dragged ourselves away from the idyllic scene and headed onwards. Just outside the town we had the misfortune of striking a black cat, who made the mistake of changing directions at the last minute, our speed was slow but the thud sounded sickening, the cat appeared to shake off its knock and scurried back across the road, Guess it only has 8 left now!!!
Cerdon it would seem is famous for two things, it is the only place in France that produces a Sparkling Rose wine and in the gorge above the town there is a dramatic prehistoric cave system that can be explored. Our night stop was in the car park for the caves, a fairly uneven grass field pretty much in the middle of nowhere. Interestingly a footpath that ran to the side of the car park was signposted to St Albans, a local church not the Hertfordshire Town. Once the sun set, and it was impressive, the temperature rapidly dropped so to keep warm we retired beneath a double layer of quilt and sleeping bag, nice and toasty.
This morning, like most mornings, was bright and clear although quite fresh. We moved from Cerdon Caves to the Town of Nantua. It was less than a 30 minute drive, parking was easy in a large car park next to the lake. Nantua sits at the Eastern end of a glacial lake with steep cliffs towering above the town, our first priority was to find the tourist office and try and learn a bit more about the town. As usual the tourist office happily ladened us with brochures and maps which covered every aspect of the town and surrounding area. The second priority was coffee and cake, we found a very modern cafe which served us with some really good coffee and excellent cake.
After Coffee and Cake we ventured onto the church of St Michael. The portal has had severe damage to all of its statues and sculptures to the extent that only the last supper is recognisable. Inside, the Church walls look like they are about to collapse outwards which will explain why such large flying buttresses can be seen externally and which clearly do not match the rest of the building. It is a very sad looking church and in places looks almost beyond repair. A Plaque within the Sacred Heart Chapel is dedicated to the priest Gabriel Gay who died during deportation in April 1945.
Nantua and the Ain region was an influential battleground for the French resistance during the second world war and as such many memorials can be found in the region. The Ain region was originally split in two by a demarcation line, but in 1942 Germany invaded the whole region, this led to a resistance movement uprising and by the spring of 1943 the “Maquis de L’Ain” had been formed. These men audaciously paraded through the town of Oyonnax in November 1943. Unfortunately this led to severe reprisals and on the 14th December 1943 in Nantua every male aged between 18 and 40 was arrested and deported to concentration camps, this action was repeated across the area and left permanent scars throughout the communities. This piece of history is eloquently displayed and told within the Museum of the Resistance and the Deportation of the Ain. The museum is housed in the town’s old prison, entrance fee is €7 and concessions are €4, even better military veterans are free, they even gave Lina an early birthday present and let her have a concession ticket. The museum houses some very interesting display pieces from a Short Stirling cockpit simulator to one of the 138 cars that were powered by “Gas” because of the shortage of petrol. With over 14,000 objects and documents it is one of the largest WWII collections in France, the archive film footage is a fascinating watch.
I can highly recommend a visit to this small but marvellous museum, the significance of its storyline cannot be underestimated, a sobering reminder of the atrocities that were suffered in particular by the people of this region. Apart from the museum the memorial that sits out on the lake is a stark reminder to the loss of life, with the names of 595 deportees who actually died whilst in the concentration camps, within the stone plinth is an urn containing ashes that were repatriated from the Buchenwald concentration camp. Nantua is a lovely town, with such a sad and dark history.
One of the recommendations from the tourist office was to visit Lake Genin, which is why we drove here this afternoon and can understand why. It is a beautiful location, we walked around the lake and then retired to the bar where we watched the sun set behind the hills from the terrace whilst enjoying a drink. Tomorrow’s location will do well to better this, but as yet we do not yet know where that will be.